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Skincare products: It is very difficult to actually make pores smaller. Toners and skin primers basically make pores appear less obvious (by either removing the oil or filling the pore), but they do not make them smaller. In order to make pores smaller, you need to work from the inside – by choosing
skincare
products or cosmetic procedures that have an effect on the fiber content of the skin. Boosting the production of collagen, elastin and glycans actually help the pore be better “supported” from within, which usually translates into the pores becoming visibly smaller over time.
In order to track results from a skincare regime or
cosmetic
procedure, ask your skin specialist to perform a computer-based analysis of the surface of the skin. It is the only way to know if the pores got smaller with time.
2. What is the difference between SPF 30 and SPF 60?
If you apply enough sunscreen (ie the size of a golf ball of sunscreen to cover the entire body), a SPF 30 will block 95% of UVB rays, and a SPF60 will block 99% of UVB rays. Therefore, you are better protected against UVB (that are responsible of burns and tanning) if you use a SPF60 than a SPF30.
Of interest, a Sun Protection Factor (SPF) does not tell us anything about the sunscreen’s capacity to block UVA rays (responsible of skin aging and sun allergies). In order to be well protected against UVA rays, it is important to look for a combination of photostable anti-UVA molecules like Parsol 1789®, Mexoryl SX and Mexoryl XL.
3. How many times a week should I exfoliate?
Exfoliation is part of the natural cell renewal of healthy skin. However, as we age, skin exfoliation is not as efficient – the skin therefore looks dull and lacks radiance. Therefore, it is important to incorporate an exfoliating product (or procedure) within your skin care routine.
There are 3 types of exfoliation:
- Chemical Exfoliation - using glycolic acid, salicylic acid, lactic acid or lipohydroxy acid (LHA) – either in skincare products or chemical peel procedures.
- Mechanical exfoliation – using abrasive particles such as polyethylene beads or aluminum oxide crystals – either in a scrub or microdermabrasion procedures.
- Enzymatic Exfoliation – by choosing products that contain natural enzymes, such as papaya enzyme or bromelain, which will break the bonds between cells to favour micro-exfoliation.
If you have tolerant skin (ie. non sensitive skin), you could exfoliate with a product adapted to your skin type 2-3 times per week. If you have naturally sensitive skin (or if your skin has been sensitized by a cosmetic procedure or have been diagnosed with a skin disease that makes your skin sensitive), you should avoid exfoliation altogether.
4. Why is it important to use a soap-free cleanser?
It is important to use a soap-free cleanser to avoid stripping the skin off its natural oils, which are essential to maintaining the natural hydration and pH balance of the skin. By using a gentle cleanser that does not contain soap or harsh detergents (like sodium lauryl sulphate, or SLS), the skin stays healthier, better hydrated and less prone to sensitivity from the environment.
5. Are all anti-aging products created equal?
Unfortunately, not all anti-aging products are created equal. From the scientific literature, there are actually few active ingredients that are recognized by the scientific community. Examples of anti-aging molecules that have been published:
- Retinoic acid
- L-Ascorbic Acid (active vitamin C)
- Glycolic Acid
- Peptides
That being said, active ingredients are not the only factor to consider into the development of a good anti-aging product. The delivery mechanisms (micelles, liposomes, nanosomes), pH properties, stability of the formulation and even proper packaging must be considered when developing a product. For example, glycolic acid must be formulated at a proper pH in order to be in an active form and have a significant effect on the skin. Also, glycolic acid preparation of less than 4% cannot claim to have an exfoliating effect – at that concentration, glycolic acid mainly acts as a humectant, not as an exfoliant. Products concentrations that are over 4% (and have a proper pH) can claim to have exfoliating effects on the skin.
6. Is 'natural' skin care best for my skin?
Poison ivy is very natural, but you don’t want to have it on your skin!
“Natural” skincare products are usually made with essential oils and plant extracts that can potentially be irritating for sensitive skin or if you are taking specific medications that makes your skin more sensitive (for example, RetinA or Accutane).
For patients with sensitive or intolerant skin, it is better to go for products that are hypoallergenic, fragrance-free and preservative-free. These products contain pharmaceutical-grade ingredients that have been thoroughly tested, are pure and safe for sensitive skin.
7. What is the best sun protection out there?
To preserve a healthy skin, it is important to wear sun protection everyday on sun-exposed areas.
Sunscreens usually do a very good job at blocking UVB rays (responsible of tanning and sunburns). Unfortunately, the majority of sunscreens fall short when it comes to blocking short and long UVA rays (responsible of sun allergies, aging and skin cancer). These sunscreens can claim to have a broad-spectrum UVA-UVB protection, even if they only block a small percentage of UVA rays.
In order to be block as much UVA rays as possible, you want to look for formulations that contain a blend of anti-UVA ingredients that act in synergy:
- Parsol 1789® (the anti-UVB ingredient “octocrylene” must be added to the sunscreen formula as it stabilizes Parsol 1789®)
- Mexoryl SX (naturally photostable)
- Mexoryl XL (naturally photostable)
By choosing a well balanced sunscreen and wearing it everyday, your skin will look healthier, and you will prevent premature skin aging. That could potentially save you thousands of dollars in Botox, fillers and other cosmetic procedures!
8. What ingredients should I avoid if I have acne-prone skin?
If you have acne-prone skin on the face, here are ingredients you may want to avoid in your skincare routine, as they have been shown to be potentially pore-clogging:
- Mineral Oil
- Natural Oils (apricot, coconut, peanut, wheat germ, avocado, …)
- Shea Butter, Cocoa Butter, Coconut Butter, Mango Butter…
- Vaseline
- Oil Balance
- Silicones
- Algae derivatives
- Lanolin and its derivatives
- Fatty Acids
- Waxes
9. What skin care products are appropriate for sensitive skin?
If you have sensitive skin you want to look for products that are:
- Hypoallergenic
- Made with pharmaceutical-grade ingredients
- Few ingredients
- Fragrance-free
- Soap-free
- Preservative-free, or alternatively self-preserving formulas
- Colorant-free
- Alcohol-free
- Peptides
Taking care of sensitive skin is about knowing what to use on the skin, but also what to avoid.
10. How can antioxidants benefit my skin?
At the cellular level, antioxidants act as free radicals quenchers.
Free radicals are reactive molecules that impact the health of our cells at multiple levels: in the membrane, cytoplasm and nucleus of the cells. They cause damage to the cells which in turn age faster. Examples of:
- Sun Exposure
- Smog and pollution
- Cigarette smoke
- Vigorous physical activity
- Fat
- Glucose
In order to reverse cellular damage, beneficial molecules called antioxidants will help neutralize free radicals. Here are a few examples of antioxidant molecules:
- Vitamin A
- Vitamin C
- Vitamin E
- Coenzyme Q10, ubiquinone, idebenone
- Grape Seed Extract
- Selenium
- Flavanoids
11. What is the difference between dry skin and dehydrated skin?
There is a huge difference between dry skin and dehydrated skin. It is important to know the difference, in order to choose the right skin care products.
Dry skin is a skin type, just like normal skin, combination skin and oily skin. By definition, dry skin lacks lipids, or natural oils. The sebaceous gland is not able to produce an adequate amount of lipids and therefore the skin constantly feels tight and itchy. There can also be flaking, redness and a lack of radiance. Even after a cream is applied.Dehydrated skin is a skin condition which can affect any skin type. Dehydration - lack of water in the superficial layers of the skin – temporarily brings feelings of tightness, pulling and discomfort. When a moisturizer is applied to the skin, these symptoms tend to go away.
If you have dry skin, look for products that contain petrolatum, mineral and vegetable oils, shea butter and fatty acids. These ingredients will compensate for the lack of oil on the skin and bring temporary comfort. If you have dehydrated skin (and everybody does), you want to look for a moisturizer containing humectants (glycerine, hyaluronic acid, ...) with a texture adapted to your skin type – a creamy texture for drier skin, a lotion for normal to combination skin and a gel or light serum for oilier skin.
12. How can I get rid of blackheads?
Getting rid of blackheads requires a multi-faceted approach to unclog pores and prevent the formation of new blackheads. And guess what: Extraction is not necessary!The first step to success is to avoid comedogenic (blackhead-promoting) ingredients in your skin care and makeup products.
In order to unclog pores, you need to choose a skin care routine (cleansing, treating, hydrating) that will gently exfoliate the surface of the skin and the inside of your pores. The use of a well-formulated glycolic acid product will help surface exfoliation, while salicylic acid (or its derivative - lipohydroxy acid) will penetrate inside of the pores to loosen the blackheads and prevent further clogging and accumulation.
Within two to three weeks, the blackhead and pore content will be released. With regular use of hydroxyl acids, the pore will stay clean and empty and should appear smaller and less noticeable.
13.What makes a state-of-the-art sun protection product?
From a scientific perspective, it is safe to say that all sunscreens are not created equal and that the vast majority of sun protection products, on the market, do not provide your skin with optimal protection. The ideal sun protection product should have the following qualities: be stable to light (photostable), offer the highest protection possible against UVA and UVB rays, have a pleasant texture, be hypoallergenic, fragrance-free, preservative-free, have a minimum sun protection factor (SPF) of 30, be water and sweat-resistant, and combine a blend of mineral and organic sunscreen ingredients for maximum protection.
Do not be fooled by the claim “broad-spectrum UVA-UVB protection” as it can be misleading. A sunscreen could block 95% of UVB rays (responsible of burns and tanning) and only 5% of UVA rays (responsible of sun allergies and aging) – and still have the right to be called a “broad-spectrum protection”. Be aware that to be fully protected against UVB and UVA rays, you have to look for very specific sunscreen ingredients.
Recommended anti-UVB filters: titanium dioxide, octocrylene, Mexoryl XL.Recommended anti-UVA filters: Parsol 1789(r) (must be stabilized by the presence of octocrylene in the product), Mexoryl SX, Mexoryl XL. Have a safe, protected summer!
More information on the skin care brand recommended by Dr. Strand
Marie Bertrand's Skin Care Website
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Information presented is of a general nature for educational and informational purposes only. Products and information presented herein are not intended to diagnose, treat, cure, or prevent disease. If you have any concerns about your own health, you should always consult with a physician or other health care professional.
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